A Photo Essay on Inspired by India by Phyllida Jay

Inspired by India‘s cover by Phyllida Jay features the necklace made for Daisy Fellowes in 1936 that has inspired a wealth of similar designs, which became known as ‘Tutti Frutti’ by jewellery and media experts from the 1970s onwards. It is an exploration of more than six centuries of trade, cultural exchange, and inspiration between India and the West. 

In 2006, to mark John Galliano’s ten years as creative director of Christian Dior, twelve limited edition global themed versions of the iconic saddle bag were released. The India-themed version of the bag incorporated some of the most familiar ideas of Indian aesthetics, including vivid pink, jewelled embellishments and golden ghungroo (ankle bells).
Maharaja chic, zardozi-style embroidery and an image of India filtered through ‘swinging sixties’ hedonism informed both the design and styling of Alexander McQueen Menswear SS/2017.
Typical of couturier Paul Poiret’s (1879–1944) inventiveness is his re Interpretation of an Indian man’s angrakha (fitted coat) in this short evening dress from 1924. Poiret subtly referred to Mughal attire by inserting rigid, heavily embroidered triangular godets at either side of the skirt. However, he subverts the crisp outline characteristic of Mughal styles by using a supple silk-satin that drapes softly over the torso. The angled closure of the dress at the hipline conforms to the 1920s’ style of a dropped waist.

During Gianfranco Ferré’s tenure as Creative Director for Dior between 1989 and 1996, he called his final AW/1996 couture collection ‘Indian Passion’. Lavish zardozi and resham embroidery for which Indian artisans are renowned were produced in Paris, the petite mains recreating the mastery of the Indian karigars. The ensemble opposite was titled ‘Bangalore’, comprising a jacket in almond, rosewood and red jacquard silk with a golden embroidered mesh skirt. Ferré spent many years working and travelling in India, his design signature a constant dialogue with Indian drapery and embroidery.
Paisley is iconic of the Milan-based Etro brand, founded in 1968 by Gerolamo ‘Gimmo’ Etro as a textile company. The genesis for the paisley that swirls across Etro’s fashion and homeware lines was born from Gimmo and his wife, Roberta’s large collection of antique Kashmir shawls. For Etro menswear SS/2016, a detail of a paisley pattern has been blown-up and abstracted across men’s suits, playfully reinventing the motif whilst reinstating its centrality as the brand signature.
This smoking suit was stitched in England around 1906 from printed silk produced in India for the European market. It demonstrates how the buta had become a fashionable motif, lifted from shawls and used as decoration with diverse production methods and applications.
Madame Grès’ abiding interest in drapery meant she often gravitated towards the sari and its richly diverse techniques of draping. Her knowledge and appreciation of Indian textiles and dress informed her work right up to her final collections in the 1970s.
Sari dress in brocade silk, designed by Cristóbal Balenciaga, 1965. The beaded and sequinned embellished trimming is by Lesage, and the brocade silk by Leonard. Balenciaga’s experiments with the sari in the 1960s were informed by his architectonic approach to fashion. He deconstructed the elements of the sari, its skirt, wrapped bodice and draped pallu (the end of the sari hanging over the shoulder) turning these into planes of fabric as part of his broader approach of simplifying construction and creating new silhouettes.
Van Cleef & Arpels manchette cuffs, illustration and photographs (above) showing them as bracelets and joined together to form a necklace. Van Cleef originally made one manchette cuff for Daisy Fellowes in 1926. Two years later she ordered a second one to make a matching pair. Van Cleef & Arpels made an ingenious suggestion, that the two manchette cuffs could be designed as to allow them to be converted into a choker necklace when desired.
Audrey Hepburn wearing an Indian-inspired necklace by Van Cleef & Arpels and
a gown by Galanos, photographed by Richard Avedon, Harper’s Bazaar, 1961.
For Chanel 2012, ’Paris-Bombay’ Métiers d’Art collection creative director Karl Lagerfeld turned Paris’ Grand Palais into a maharaja’s palace, complete with a miniature silver train that ran along the tables curving either side through the length of the runway.
Aayushi Jain

Aayushi Jain

Aayushi Jain

Aayushi Jain

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